Blog: Semester abroad in Salamanca, Spain

As part of the 5th semester of the Multilingual Communication programme, I received an ERASMUS grant to study at the University of Salamanca (USAL) in the region of Castilla y León.

One of the things I like about this university is that accent-free High Spanish, or what is known as Castilian, is spoken. Compared to Cologne, Salamanca is a small and medium-sized city located about 220 km from Madrid on the Río Tormes.

Particularly noteworthy are the historic buildings and the old university, most of which are in  Spanish early Renaissance or Plateresco style.

There are many buildings made of golden sandstone, which is why Salamanca is also called “ The Golden City“. The golden stones used to build the houses come from Villamayor, 6 km away. The special feature of this stone is that it hardly oxidises. At sunrise and sunset, you can watch outside how beautifully the light reflects on the Plateresque buildings.

In 1988, the city centre was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site and in 2002 it was „European Capital of Culture“ together with the Belgian city of Bruges.

Despite the tranquillity of the city, there is plenty to discover, so boredom is unlikely to be an issue. The many students from all over the world make the city particularly lively and there is always something going on.

Salamanca is also known for its vibrant nightlife, numerous bars and discos. The city centre stretches around the Plaza Mayor and offers a range of shopping opportunities.

In addition, everything can be reached quickly by bus. The cultural and leisure activities on offer here are extremely varied.

During my studies, I took three translation courses at the Facultad de Traducción y Documentación (Institute for Translation and Interpreting) and one grammar course at the Facultad de Filología. While there, I analysed Spanish texts of various kinds (e.g. advertising texts, non-fiction texts, news articles, literary texts, etc.), translated them from German into Spanish and wrote Spanish learning diaries.

I also took part in a seminar on three topics for translating from Spanish into German: Job applications, instructions for use and cooking recipes.

My conclusion: For me, the six months in Salamanca were a wonderful experience. It didn’t take long for me to get used to Spanish life and the people. I gained many interesting insights and met people from all over the world.

Fortunately, I had the privilege of meeting Spaniards who welcomed me very warmly. In the end, I can say that the cultural exchange worked very well.

 

La Facultad de Traducción y Documentación (USAL), Salamanca

(1) The University of Salamanca (USAL) is one of the oldest universities in Spain and Europe. It was founded in 1218 by the Leonese King Alfonso IX.

Many historical figures, thinkers and poets earned their doctorates here. Even Columbus was at this university in 1492 to convince the royal committee of scholars of his theory that India lay to the west, while the book Gramática de la lengua castellana (Grammar of the Castilian Language) by the humanist and philologist Antonio de Nebrija was printed in Salamanca in the same year.

By 1540, the Dominican priest Francisco de Vitoria had laid the foundations of international law and taught the equality of all races.

Today, the university is a leader in the field of research in Europe. The range of courses here is very broad in humanities and natural sciences, which is why over 40,000 students study here.

The university’s famous mascot is a frog on a skull. Legend has it that whoever discovers this frog sitting on a skull will pass all exams.

(3) I really enjoyed studying at this university for six months. The teachers are very attentive and the staff is very friendly.

(2) At USAL, for example, in collaboration with the University of Cambridge, students‘ foreign language skills are tested as part of the Association of Language Testers in Europe (ALTE).

On the photo you can see the  entrance gate to the Faculty of Translation and Interpreting of the University of Salamanca. This faculty was founded in 1987 and is located near the New Cathedral and the Faculty of Philology.

I have noticed a special tradition on the walls of the university: Back then, the fresh graduates and doctoral students eternalised their names in bull’s blood on the walls. You also find the „Vitores“ painted on the walls – in Spanish-speaking countries it is a sign for a special honourary distinction written on the walls by doctoral students to celebrate their victory (victoria) over the books.

Casa de las Conchas

(1) The Casa de Conchas (House of Shells) is a golden sandstone building built at the end of the 15th century that is now a listed monument.

It was built between 1493 and 1517 as a palace for Don Rodrigo Arias Maldonado, a relative of the Catholic Monarchs and Knights of the Order of Santiago.

(3) It was an optimal retreat for me to study effectively or to exchange ideas with students.

(2) The building is Gothic and Plateresque in style and the façade is made of sandstone blocks decorated with more than 300 shells.

We are talking about the pilgrim’s shell, which is considered a signpost for all pilgrims in Europe who are on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

The Casa de Conchas is located near my university, USAL. Today, the building is mainly used as a public library. I visited it every day after my lectures.

The River Tormes and the New Cathedral

The city of Salamanca also has a lot of green space (2 million m² in total). Near the Roman bridge, on the opposite side of the river Tormes, there are many beautiful walks and lawns for sunbathing and relaxing. There are also running and cycling paths for those who enjoy outdoor sports. The best view of the whole cityscape is from here, especially the New Cathedral, which is reflected on the surface of the water of the River Tormes. Built in 1513, the Roman Catholic basilica is built in post-Gothic and Renaissance Style and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Low-price cinema on Wednesdays

Every Wednesday I visited the Cine van Dyck to watch contemporary „Spanish cinema“. This was not only a good entertainment option for me, but also an opportunity to discover the cultural, historical and social reflection of Spain from the perspective of the Spanish film industry.

(1) I also joined a Salmantine hiking group called „De Botas“. We met every 2 weeks to take part in a walking tour in a selected place in Castilla y León. The group has a great respect for nature, the heritage of their ancestors and they love Spanish gastronomy and good conversation.

De Botas - Hiking with Salmantines

(2) There is also a blog where all the activities of this group are documented, with their hikes included:

Blog Link

 I took part in those hiking tours for example:

El ROMÁNICO DEL TORMES

Blog Link

SANABRIA ENTRAÑABLE

Blog Link

Girls' evening at the "Churrasco" cider house/steakhouse

I’ve met with international female students from the University of Salamanca at the cider house/steakhouse „Churrasco“ for a joint dinner. This restaurant is not only known for its steaks, but also for its delicious cider. Churrasco means „meat grilled over an open fire“.

The Plaza Mayor in the heart of Salamanca

(1) You will find a very beautiful square called Plaza Mayor, decorated in Baroque style, representing the heart of Salamanca. Construction of the square began in 1729 and was completed in 1755. It also became a National Monument in 1935.

(2) There are numerous carved medallions to be seen in the square. Of special note here are the representations of the Spanish kings and Saint Theresa.

The square has a total of 88 arches on the ground floor, which are part of an arcade that runs around the entire perimeter of the structure. The outer corridors are now home to restaurants, tourist offices and small shops.

(3) The upper floors have a total of 247 balconies. The Plaza Mayor hosts all kinds of events and is a meeting spot for young and old.

In the past it was used for processions, markets, executions and bullfights.

(2) During this popular festival, there are processions in which flowers are offered to the patron saint, there are festivities and concerts with fireworks in the Plaza Mayor, while traditional garments are worn.

Back then, it all started with a harvest festival where farmers and merchants sold their harvested fruits and agricultural goods at fairs. The Virgin La Vega was declared the protector of the city in 1618 because the Salmantines believed that their crops and livestock were protected by her.

Stalls are set up in the streets offering affordable tapas, pinchos, beer and wine for sale. In addition, many of Spain’s famous bullfighters visit the city of Salamanca at this time to demonstrate their bullfighting prowess in the city’s bullring.

Virgen de la Vega Festival and Fair

(1) I was lucky enough to arrive in Salamanca during the festivities in honour of the patron saint Virgen de la Vega, which take place in September.

This is a wonderful time to immerse yourself in the culture and tradition of the city of Salamanca. On the occasion of this festival, there are numerous fairs that bring the culture and history of Salamanca to life.

(3) You can see that a bullfight is taking place, when the Spanish flag with the silhouette of a fighting bull is raised in the Plaza Mayor.

(2) I was able to hear one of his songs from the album „Séptimo Cielo“ (Eng: Seventh Heaven) live as well as watch the singing fans.

Night Festival at the Plaza Mayor

(1) In the Plaza Mayor, I had the pleasure of attending a free concert with singer, songwriter and composer David de María at the end of the festivities. He is one of the most important Spanish singers with more than 25 years of experience in the music scene and has established himself in the field of pop and flamenco music, with 10 albums released and more than one million records sold.

(3) Unfortunately, I couldn’t get close enough to take a picture of him with my mobile phone camera, as the Plaza Mayor was packed at that time.

The New Cathedral (1)

(1) Opposite my Faculty of Translation and Interpreting is the New Cathedral of Salamanca, just a few minutes‘ walk from the Plaza Mayor.

(3) The cathedral is adorned with numerous decorations depicting scenes from the life of Jesus Christ.

(2) Built in a mixture of late Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance styles, the basilica of the Roman Catholic diocese was commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs in 1513 next to the old cathedral.

The church was not formally consecrated until 1733. After 22 years, there was a violent earthquake, the so-called Lisbon earthquake, in which the bell tower and the dome of the church collapsed, so that the reconstruction of the building was not completed until 1762.

(2) The restorer Jerónimo García was given permission to create some additional stone sculptures on the exterior façade of the cathedral and decided, among other things, to decorate the cathedral with the stone sculpture of an Austronaut, a symbol of the 20th century.

The New Cathedral (2)

(1) In 1992, extensive renovation work was carried out on the New Cathedral.

(3) This is a tradition of the builders and restorers of the cathedral to leave a signature with a contemporary motif as a result of their work. The stonemasonry work with the astronaut took place on the occasion of an exhibition entitled „Las Edades del Hombre“.

Huerto de Calisto y Melibea

(1) In the historic centre of the city is a beautiful park called „Huerto de Calisto y Melibea“ (Calisto and Melibea Orchard).

(3) The romantic park was inaugurated in 1981 and is located at the foot of the river Tormes.

(2) The garden is 2500 m² in size and was named after the medieval tragicomedy „La Celestina“ from 1499, whose main characters are the lovers Calisto and Melibea, written by the writer Fernando de Rojas.

(2) At that time, Fray Luis de León was persecuted by the Spanish Inquisition in 1571 because university professors complained that he had translated the Bible into Spanish. This was forbidden in the Catholic Church at that time.

Statue Of Fray Luis de León

(1) This statue is located in front of the old university building on the terrace of the Escuelas Menores of Salamanca. It is a monument in honour of the sixteenth-century Spanish poet, lyricist, philosopher and Augustinian monk Fray Luis de León (*1527 – †23.08.1591).

(3) He was imprisoned for 5 years and was only released in 1576. The statue was created by the artist Nicasio Sevilla as part of a public competition held by the Academy of San Fernando between 1866 and 1868.

The Church of La Clerecía

(1) Here I am standing on an alley that leads up to the Pontifical University and Church „La Clerecía“.

(3) The Jesuits held classes in the public part of the church and the private part of the church was used as a monastery.

During the reign of Charles III. (Spanish: Carlos Sebastián de Borbón y Farnesio) in the years 1759-1788, the Jesuits were expelled from Spain and the rights of this church were also massively restricted, to the point that it fell out of favour.

Today, the building serves as the seat of the Pontifical University.

(2) The university school was founded in 1611 by order of Queen Margaret of Austria, wife of King Philip III, and took no less than 150 years to build. The architect of the building was Gómez de Mora.

It was constructed in Baroque style and was known as the Royal University Building of the Society of Jesus at the time.

(2) stones from Villamayor. Walking around here, it’s easy to forget the time. The medieval streets are most beautiful in the mornings and evenings, when Salamanca shines in a special light.

The beautiful alleys of the old town

(1) Salamanca has many small, winding streets where it is easy to get lost on a walk. The old and new buildings along these alleys have also been decorated with the gold-coloured

(3) There are many cafés, bars, boutiques, restaurants, bookshops, etc. here.

Street Art

(1) As I walk through the city, I notice this peculiarity in Salamanca. You can find street art everywhere, as far as the eye can see. Especially the Barrio del Oeste neighbourhood is a paradise for street art.

(3) The neighbourhood should become hip and trendy and a meeting place for all young people, especially for the over 40,000 students.

More artworks by Salamanca’s street artists can be seen on their Facebook page:

https://web.facebook.com/salamancastreetart/

(2) Prior to 2016, there was a competition organised by the Asociacion de Vecinos de Bario Oeste (ZOES for short) where local street artists were given full permission by property owners and businesses to bring in their painting talents with the intention of revitalising the neighbourhood to promote economic viability through Street Art.

(2) The Gothic-style church with rich Plateresque and Baroque ornamentation was built between the 16th and 17th centuries by order of Cardinal Juan Álvarez de Toledo.

The San Esteban Church

(1) The Roman Catholic parish church and monastery of San Esteban is also located in the old town of Salamanca and is owned by the Dominican Order.

(3) The church’s 30-metre-high and 14-metre-wide golden altarpiece and the Escalera de Soto, built between 1553 and 1556, are outstanding.

La Glorieta Bullring

(1) Here, during my lunchtime walk, I happened to come across the Salamanca bullring, built in classical style. This arena, called Glorieta, is located on the Avenida San Agustín and is still used for bullfights. The stadium holds over 10,000 spectators and was officially opened on 11 September 1893.

(3) In 1982, he was appointed president of the Association of Matadores, Novilleros y Rejoneadores de España. Originally, the bullfights were held in the Plaza Mayor, but this has since been abolished. The bullfighting season lasts from summer to autumn, by which time many visitors come to experience the Spanish cultural event live. When there are no bullfights, the arena is also used for open-air concerts and other events.

(2) The photo above shows a monument to the bullfighter Pedro Gutierrez Moya, also known as Niño de la Capea, in front of the bullring La Glorieta. He was born in 1952 and attended the bullfighting school „La Capea“ in his childhood, which is where he got his nickname. He has had a successful career as a bullfighter at both European and American level and has taken part in around 1800 fights.

(2) More than 80 streets, squares and roundabouts are decorated with Christmas lights. Here in Spain, the Christmas season lasts until 06 January. Students from the University of Salamanca visit the Plaza Mayor about 2 weeks before Christmas Eve to celebrate in the city centre before going home for holidays.

You can also visit the elaborate and artistic nativity scenes in the New Cathedral and the Convent of the Isabeles, or visit the Christmas markets in the city selling toys, gifts, nativity figures, books, etc., and of course buy sweets and Christmas pastries such as turrones, nougat, marzipan, polvorones or the Epiphany cake (Spanish: roscón de reyes) with or without filling.

Christmas in Salamanca

(1) The Plaza Mayor and the shopping streets in Salamanca are beautifully decorated during the Christmas season and many tourists flock to the Golden City over the holidays to experience the magic of Christmas or to buy Christmas presents in the many shops of the Old Town.

(3) I spent my New Year’s Eve with Salmantine acquaintances in a pub and ended up taking part in the Spanish custom of eating 12 lucky grapes just before New Year’s Eve, while the last 12 chimes of the church rang in the New Year. The 12 grapes represent the 12 months of the year and each month was supposed to bring good luck. This custom has existed for over 100 years.

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